Walking into CIFF this season, the feeling was immediate. Even before seeing the collections, the space itself was speaking - orange and white tones, clean lines, nothing excessive, yet confident. Minimal in structure, strong in presence. It felt like a quiet signal: something is changing.
And it did.

As I moved through the fair, one thing became clear very quickly - we’re stepping away from strict minimalism. Not dramatically, not overnight, but deliberately. Fall 2026 feels like a return to adding rather than stripping back. Texture, pattern, and material are back in the spotlight, and designers seem genuinely excited about it.
Across many emerging brands, texture was doing most of the talking. Fur, velvet, cashmere, wool, silk, pleats - layered, mixed, sometimes intentionally clashing. Scandinavian brands in particular felt braver this season, more willing to experiment with surfaces and depth instead of staying safely understated. The clothes felt tactile, almost emotional - things you want to touch, not just look at.

Then there was the print that kept appearing unexpectedly: deer. Almost everywhere. It felt like the natural next step after leopard - still graphic, but softer, more poetic, more Nordic. Familiar, yet calmer. Bold without being aggressive. Very now.
Some collections stood out not because they were loud, but because they felt confident. Twist and Tango played with strong wool tailoring, cashmere blends, and snake-pattern skirts that felt wearable but far from boring. BOII Studios focused on elevated essentials - well-made, thoughtful pieces that feel like they’re meant to stay in your wardrobe. Esteem Cashmere brought full cashmere looks in fresh shades - pastels, soft blues - proving that warmth doesn’t have to mean heaviness. Herskind leaned into silk, creating movement and lightness within familiar silhouettes. Marella surprised with businesswear that felt modern and intentional - a light blue velvet skirt styled with a silk scarf stayed with me. Envelope1976 also delivered collections driven by texture and material rather than trends.

Overall, Fall 2026 doesn’t feel like a reaction, it feels like a release. After seasons of restraint, fashion is allowing itself to feel rich again. Not overdone, not chaotic, just more human. More layered. More personal.
And honestly, it feels good.
Written by Nella Karapetian
Photo Credit: CIFF