A runway show can cost more than €100,000 to produce. For an independent designer, that's a serious investment, especially when the actual show lasts barely fifteen minutes. With fashion calendars already packed, it's reasonable to ask what a brand expects to achieve from that investment.
But the conversation around runway shows versus presentations is often framed as a question of which format is better. Perhaps that's the wrong comparison. They serve different purposes, attract different audiences and create different opportunities.

A runway show can build a strong visual identity, generate press coverage and create a memorable moment for a collection. When carefully planned, even a small, conceptual show can have a significant impact. The number of guests or the scale of production doesn't necessarily determine its success. What matters is whether the right people are in the room and whether the show supports the brand's wider strategy.
Presentations offer another kind of experience. They allow buyers, editors and stylists to spend more time with the garments, examine construction, understand materials and speak directly with the designer. For brands where craftsmanship, details or a particular creative process are central to the story, that closer interaction can be especially valuable.

Recent fashion calendars have also raised questions about changing participation in both formats. But a decline in the number of scheduled shows or presentations doesn't automatically mean that one is replacing the other. Costs, industry priorities and the decisions of individual brands all play a role.
For independent designers, the more useful conversation is about objectives, audience and return on investment. Is the goal to attract buyers, build press relationships, introduce a new creative direction or create content that will continue working long after Fashion Week?
A presentation might be the right choice for one collection, while a carefully produced runway show could make perfect sense for another. Sometimes a combination of formats is worth exploring.

Ultimately, the question isn't whether a runway show or presentation is better. It's what the brand wants to achieve, who it needs to reach and which format can deliver that most effectively.
A successful Fashion Week appearance isn't measured by how many people attended. It's measured by what happens because they were there.
Photo credits: Anna Minaeva
Source: Emerging Talents Milan SS27