SPHERE: The Next Names at PFW

Not every discovery happens on the runway.

Sometimes, it happens quietly in a showroom, between racks, conversations, and pieces that haven’t yet been seen by the wider world. Spaces like SPHERE – Paris Fashion Week® showroom exist exactly for this moment: to give early visibility to designers who are still shaping their voice, their product, and their place in the industry.

What makes these spaces interesting is not just the curation, but the potential. You never really know which of these names will grow into something bigger. But you can sense when something is there.

This season, a few stood out.

SONNEY. Material as Language

Lora Sonney’s work feels like research more than fashion. There’s a strong focus on material experimentation - transforming everyday objects into something unfamiliar.

Her latest collection moves between science and nature, almost like a personal archive of textures. It’s precise, but never cold. You get the sense that material comes first, and everything else follows.

WEINSANTO. Fashion as Performance

Victor Weinsanto approaches fashion with a sense of theatre that feels rare right now. His collection After Midnight moves between control and release - structured silhouettes slowly giving way to something more instinctive. There’s humor, exaggeration, and freedom in the work, but also a clear point of view. It doesn’t try to fit in.

VAUTRAIT. Quiet Craftsmanship

Vautrait stands on the opposite end of the spectrum. The work is restrained, almost meditative. Tailoring is treated with care, and each piece feels considered rather than designed for impact. It’s less about statement and more about continuity, garments as something that holds time rather than follows it.

J.SIMONE. Playful Contradictions

Jude Ferrari’s J.SIMONE brings a different kind of energy. Bright, slightly chaotic, intentionally irreverent. The brand plays with taste mixing references, colors, and materials in ways that shouldn’t work but somehow do. There’s a lightness here, but also a conscious approach through upcycling and material reuse.

VICTOR CLAVELLY. Future in Construction

Victor Clavelly moves fashion into another territory entirely. His work sits between clothing and object, using 3D printing to build garments directly from digital design. The pieces feel like artifacts - sculptural, experimental, and slightly unsettling in their precision. It’s not about wearability first, but about possibility.

RIZ POLI. City as Composition

Riz Poli works through narrative. Each collection feels tied to a place, a system, or a cultural reference. This season, the idea of “polyphony”, multiple voices existing at once, translates into layered silhouettes and shifting structures. There’s an ongoing dialogue between art, community, and daily life.

These are brands still defining themselves, still testing, still building. And that’s exactly what makes them worth watching.

Because before the runway, before the front row, before recognition this is where it starts.